The second shot on a par-5 has been called the most boring shot in golf. Yet, the club that most players use for that shot, the Fairway Wood, can prove as invaluable to scoring well as any club in the bag. More below…
ZR 3.0 Fairway Woods
The ZR3.0 fairway woods feature a wide face for optimal launch conditions. High quality stainless heads provide the durability that you expect and contribute to performance as well. Take your game to the next level with the ZR3.0 woods and start going for those par 5’s in two.
Command W7G 3 Wood
The new look Command W7G fairway wood joins the driver and hybrids that feature the new white finish built for forgiveness. Like the driver the fairway woods features aerodynamic speed slots in the sole of the club to increase head speed which will improve distance. You are seeing the color white everywhere in golf now. There is a reason why clubs heads are being designed with a white finish: the white finish on the crown improves the visibility of the head against the grass, helping you with accuracy.
Yukon Offset Fairway Woods
No doubt about it, the Yukon fairway woods feature advanced Anti-Slice Technology designed to help fight that dreaded slice. Among all the woods we carry this technology is unique. “Anti-Slice Technology” is an offset technology that has been here for years but with the new design in shafts and more forgiving heads, the offset is now a true and tested way to improve your slice.
Pinemeadow Excel Monterossa Fairway Woods
The Pinemeadow Excel Monterossa fairway woods feature a longer toe to heel length and deep head design which creates fairway wood not only built for distance but are easy to play. All players of different skill level will enjoy playing these woods because of the balanced weight which helps gain optimal distance and control for those long approach shots where an iron just can’t do the job.
Most players face two challenges with this shot: hit it farther and hit it straighter. Outside of working to make your golf swing more effective, which you should be doing, the fairway wood can help to solve the farther/straighter problem. It can probably also save you a couple of strokes.
The New Era
There was a time when woods were made out of…wood. In fact, these were the clubs of choice during the feathery-ball era, which lasted from the 15th Century to the middle of the 19th Century. With the introduction of the Taylor Made Pittsburgh Persimmon metal-headed driver in 1979, golf club design changed again. Although this club wasn’t immediately embraced by purists because of its sound at impact and nontraditional appearance, it nonetheless allowed club designers greater latitude.
With metal (usually steel), the designer can easily make the clubhead larger or smaller, add runners to the sole, or build out the toe–all in an effort to make the club perform better. In other words, to help you hit the ball straighter and with more confidence. Steel also has a higher strength-to-weight ratio than wood, allowing the club maker to use less material without sacrificing strength. The result is a lighter, easier-to-swing clubhead. Also, to help the club perform better and be more forgiving, weight is moved to the perimeter of the clubhead to help it square at impact and be more stable on off-center hits.
Your Best Friend
The Fairway Wood can make your wandering tee shot a little less problematic and the long par-4s a little more reachable. And other than the short irons, the fairway woods are the easiest clubs to hit. Most mid-to-high-handicap players have much more confidence in a fairway wood than either their driver or a long iron.
The ease in hitting is accomplished by two design features. The larger clubhead, when compared to an iron, provides greater stability because it is less likely to twist through impact. This helps you return the clubface to square at impact and produces straighter ball flight.
The loft of a fairway wood is typically 15 degrees for a standard 3-wood, 19 degrees for a 5-wood, and 24 degrees for a 7-wood. The loft of the 5-wood corresponds to a 2-iron, and the 7-wood to a 4-iron. Many intermediate golfers are using these woods as reliable substitutes for the corresponding irons.
Here are some of the technical advances you can expect to find in this new generation of metalwoods:
• Low center of gravity
Because a metalwood is hollow, the weight is concentrated to the sole and the outside of the clubhead to help get the ball airborne and increase the sweetspot.
• Stronger lofts
The low center of gravity means the manufacturer can use stronger lofts without compromising trajectory. This translates to added distance.
• Miracle metals
In the last few years, new-age steels and titanium have been used to provide even more advantages. These light, strong materials allow the club designer to maintain the strength and integrity of the clubhead and place yet more weight on the sole, the back, the heel, and the toe for greater stability through impact.
A change of rules in ’92 allowed for inserts in metal clubs (irons and woods). For instance, some clubs now have forged steel inserts in the face. This harder-hitting surface provides greater impact force and a better “feel” for the player. (A complaint among better players was that metalwoods didn’t provide response on off-center hits. The insert helps to combine the advantages of a perimeter-weighted metalwood with the more traditional response at impact.)
• Trouble clubs
Many fairway woods are designed as trouble clubs. Instead of a flat sole, these clubs have a rounded or convex sole, and some employ cutouts or bulges to ensure better contact in the rough or from fairway bunkers.
Our Best Tips
Change your stance.
Though you may feel as if you have a driver in your hand, do not set up as you would with your driver. Your front foot should be flared toward the target. Position the ball back in your stance slightly and closer to the heel of your front foot to help catch the ball at the bottom of your swing arc.
It may be 250 yards to the pin, but this doesn’t mean you have to kill the ball. Swing easy with good tempo and acceleration, and allow the club to do its job.
This is especially true with an unlevel lie. You don’t have to hit the perfect shot. A good shot will work.
Seeing is believing.
See that long, straight shot banging down the fairway to the hole. Then hit it.
Just say no.
If you’re looking at a 230-yard shot that has to carry a pond and you know your nicest 3-wood will go about 220 at best, lay up.
Slow and steady in the sand.
If you’re faced with a long shot out of a fairway bunker, stop before reaching for a wood. Be sure the lip you need to carry is low and that you don’t have any other obstacles, such as a tree, in your flight path. When swinging, dig into the sand for better balance, choke down on the club slightly, take the club back slowly, and use only a three-quarter swing to ensure better ball contact.
Don’t be afraid.
If your group is using long irons and you know you can’t even get a 3-iron or a 4-iron close, put it out of your mind. Pull out the 5-wood and bang it close. No one is going to remember when you’re putting for birdie.
Know your shot.
Do you hit the ball high or low? If you hit the ball too high and are looking for more roll, choose a fairway wood with a little less loft, such as a 13-degree 3-wood. But if you need all the help you can get, choose more loft.
Consider shorter fairway woods.
7- and 9-woods are becoming more common. If you have a hard time with irons, consider these more lofted woods. If you start to hit more greens, who cares what you’re using?