
Golf's biggest advancements have come via dramatic improvements in ball construction. Compared to 30 years ago, today's golf ball travels farther, rolls longer, doesn't lose its round, flies straighter, and won't split its cover if you look at it wrong. Precisely engineered dimple patterns have allowed manufacturers to alter everything from trajectory to spin rates. As a result of these breakthroughs, players now have the opportunity to choose and play the best ball for their games. More below...
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Years ago, everyone played with a soft, easy-cutting, natural rubber, balata-covered ball--whether you were a scratch player or a 25 handicap. Today, you're lucky to have numerous choices. However, options don't necessarily make things easier. In fact, finding the right ball for your game can be confusing. Rather than have you spend hours researching your options, we did it for you.
There are two main classes of balls: spin, and distance.
Spin: Designed to provide 'workability' over distance, they are often of three-piece construction. A central core (liquid in the highest spin balls) is surrounded by rubber windings, which is often covered with a thin, soft material called urethane or synthetic balata. These balls spin more, making them easier to draw or fade, and they hold the green. They also have a softer feel but won't travel as far as distance balls. These are the balls of choice for many touring professionals, they already have the distance but need good workability. Popular examples of multilayer balls are the Titleist Pro V1x and the Nike One.
Distance: Their cover is typically Surlyn (a durable, very firm material) or a Surlyn blend and are generally two-piece with a solid core. The inside of the distance ball is a firm synthetic material. The combined firmness of the cover and core allow the ball to travel longer distances and be very durable. However, these balls don't spin a great amount. Less spin means less control and stopping ability in certain cases. These have a harder feel than balls with wound construction. These are the balls of choice for the 'general' golfer like you and me as we need the distance and don't have (yet) the ability to work the ball like the pros. The Precept MC Lady and the Maxfli Noodle are two very popular examples of this category.
Synthetic 'Balata': A polyurethane blend that provides a balata-like responsiveness with Surlyn-like cut resistance. Usually combined with wound construction for the ultimate combination of soft feel and better control. Generally used in todays high-end balls.
Surlyn blends: A hard, tough-to-cut cover offering less feel but more durability. Gives more distance but less maneuverability at a good price. A popular choice for beginners.
Most novice players should try two-pice balls that use a more durable cover so that mis-hits don't ruin the ball's roundness and flight characteristics. Click this link to check out the current Best Deals on Golfballs.
Advanced players should try to stay away from (synthetic) Surlyn covered two-piece balls, which don't offer as much feel and lack the ability to "work" the ball. Try a few different balls in the appropriate category for you and find one that makes you feel lucky. Confidence is half the battle!
You may want to check out the Golfballs.com website for more info and suggestions on balls.
| Our Best Tips |
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Determine which compression is best for you. Compression is a measure of how hard the ball may feel--the higher the compression number the harder the feel (and the less it compresses during impact). A common misconception among players is that a 100-compression ball always flies farther. This is not true. Clubhead speed, rather than compression, is most important to distance. For some golfers, a lower-compression ball will fly farther. In fact, many of todays touring pros prefer a lower compression of about 80 for the added 'feel' rather than just distance. Determine if you like two- or three-piece balls. Today, spin rates are a function of cover softness rather than construction. Still, a two-piece ball generally produces more distance and less spin, while a multi layer (three-piece or four-piece) ball gives you more feel and additional spin. A three-piece ball often flies higher than a two-piece as well, because spin is what causes a golf ball to lift. Pick a ball that suits your level of play. If you mis-hit or top the ball a lot, you're not going to want an easy-cutting ball. Conversely, if you're a scratch player, you're not going to want something that feels hard and gives you less spin and control--even if it won't cut. Choose a ball that fits your budget. Golf is an expensive sport. Let's face it, we all lose golf balls - if we didn't, we'd be on TV. Some balls cost more than $5 a piece, and this can add up very quickly if you lose a lot. Find the right ball for your budget. Often similar balls - of the same construction - vary greatly in price. Be conscious of this. Also, you should seriously consider getting recycled balls, they cost a fraction of the new ones and play just as well. A large selection can be found HERE Consider the material. While most two-piece balls have a synthetic core that varies only in softness, some companies are now adding exotic materials such as tungsten and titanium. Companies claim that because these exotic materials are dense and the center of gravity is more centrally located, the balls spin more. Some companies use these materials in ball covers, promising added feel and distance. Other companies use multilayer construction. These are higher-priced balls generally made with synthetic covers. They provide a good combination of durability, soft feel, and consistency. |
| Myths About Golf Balls |
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More dimples mean a higher trajectory. |
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every thing i read about balls say that the average golfer will hit a 70 compession further than a 100 compression unless your swing is 110 mph or higher. just fyi
Dan (email on file)
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